Achu soup – only the strongest survive

Posted July 9, 2009 by ourman
Categories: cameroon, food

Tags: , ,

achusoup

It’s says a great deal about the access to internet in Cameroon that I’ve found it hard to find information on the most Cameroonian of dishes – achu soup.

It’s a while since I’ve been exposed to the dish and haven’t been able to snap it, so this pic sourced from Flickr is as good as it gets.

Anyway, for the foreigner, achu soup is the dish that you really don’t want to find yourself in the situation of having to eat.  However, it’s hard to overstate how loved it is by Cameroonians.

Personally – I’ve had neither the inclination or the guts to eat it.  Mostly, I guess, because I want my guts to remain where they are.

The ingredient that is generally blamed for the adverse affect on whiteman tummies is lime stone – all ground up and added to the sauce alongside bananas, beef, cow skin, palm oil and assorted spices.

While I have heard of foreigners who have mastered not only the art of keeping it down and remaining healthy  - they are very very few and far between. For the most part – if you plan to eat achu then ensure your diary is empty for the rest of the week or ensure meetings take place very near to a functioning toilet.

If you do want to throw caution to the wind then you also have to master the art of how it’s eaten – firstly the  coco yam, in a mash-like state, is moulded into a nest shape where the soup is poured. From there soup soaked yam is scraped away from the inside outwards with the index finger.

With 50 days to go in Cameroon I can quite honestly say that I will not be eating achu.  To date I’ve onl had it served up in a buffets where I’ve had other safer options t0 go for – without the risk of offending my hosts.

It’s worth noting that my achu knowledge is very limited and am happy to be put right on any of the information above – also are there any foreigners out there who have eaten it and survived to tell the tale?  Or any Cameroonians who are happy to explain their achu-love?

Pic from Obnoxious hero via Flickr.

VSO blogging – goldmine mined

Posted July 2, 2009 by ourman
Categories: volunteering

Tags: , , ,

No sooner had I written the last post when I received a comment from Dave.

Dave’s a VSO volunteer in Namibia and the man behind Dave’s Boring Blog.

It seems we’ve been thinking along the same lines. He explains:

Noticing the same lack of a centralised place I been working on a little project to act as a central directory of VSO blogs indexed by country. The very early (and it’s literally three days old) implementation is http://vsojournals.purplepixie.org – right now it’s not very functional and looks awful but I would be grateful of any comments or suggestions, contact details provided on the site.

Sadly the one place I can’t get post information from is vso-stories.net which, shock horror, doesn’t offer RSS feeds!

Also along the same lines, in April last year I posted plans to create a similar site but when I aired the idea on the VSO Facebook site I was persuaded to leave it as VSO were supposedly on to it.  It appears now – they weren’t.

You snooze you lose and now VSO face the prospect of such a valuable resource growing without their input. It also means that web traffic may well go via this new site direct to blogs without touching the official one.

I emailed Dave and he further explained:

When researching my own placements I made extensive use of blogs (including yours in various guises!!) which, as you say, is the easiest way to get a proper feel for the place.

Around the same time I came across the Peace Corp Journals site and thought that was a really good idea. With a little bit of time on my hands and a geekish interest in parsing RSS thought I’d see what I could knock together.

Googling is always a bit hit and miss, I missed blogs I’ve later found etc and so thought a directory-by-country with inbuilt RSS feed would be the best way of doing it.

Nice work.  It was always going to happen sooner or later.

Blogging, not PR, tells the whole story of VSO volunteering

Posted July 2, 2009 by ourman
Categories: volunteering

Tags: , , , ,

VSO_logo_gifI can recall first bringing up VSO’s inability to make use of the hundreds of worldwide blogs almost five years ago.

I was in a volunteer Conference in Hoi An and volunteers were being asked to provide details of their experience for publication to aid new volunteers and those signing up.

I knew most of my colleagues kept a blog and I suggested instead why just not put them on a list and they could be accessed and contacted as needed.

Probably just to appease me, a sheet of paper was handed round for us all to write our URLs on and then…nothing was ever done about it.

Later when they needed pictures for posters and websites this time I suggested utilising Flickr.  We could all be given log in details and could all upload pics and it would have the added value of us seeing what each was up to, enabling us to share pics with back home AND the programme office could have their pick of the best ones.

Again it was never acted upon.

Spool forward a few years and here we are in 2009 and there has been some blogging breakthroughs – in particular the visually uninspiring on-site official efforts.  However the gold mine of what must surely be hundreds and hundreds of blogs remain unmined.

I’m moved to blog this (yet) again because this week two blogs turned up in my RSS trawl.  One was only recently posted whereas the other is from a couple of years back (it was a new comment that made it pop up).

But they show the extremes of VSO life and indeed of expat life and they address probably the key issue for volunteers in determining what posting is best for them and what can be handled.

They are also a reminder that, in putting their faith in social media, organisations like VSO have to unlearn the PR lessons and decide that while they can continue to promote the good it isn’t unreasonable to acknowledge the bad.

Actually, for many people “the bad” is part of the experience.  Often it’s “the bad” that makes the experience.  Hopefully in the snippets below – from a Capital-based Canadian saying goodbye to a big city post in Sri Lanka – and a Brit suffering in rural Bangladesh – you will see what I mean:

Rural Brit:

The day was slightly tarnished though by being constantly harassed and stared at. I’m beginning to realise what it must be like to be a really famous footballer or film-star, because everywhere I go the whole street turns it head and watches me, whether I’m cycling, eating, being ripped off in the market, picking my nose.

Capital Canadian:

This weekend was lovely. On Friday night, VSO held a cocktail party to introduce the new country director, Patrick, to volunteers, partners, funders and friends of the organization. …The party was the perfect opportunity to say goodbye to the volunteers and partners … all in a nice social setting with food and free wine! After the VSO event, many of us headed to the Cricket Club…

Rural Brit:

In Srimangal a few months ago me and Georgia got followed on our bikes by six kids for almost two miles. We thought we’d try and bore them out, so stopped by the side of the road and just stood and said nothing for two minutes. They all stopped about a metre away from us and peered at us for two minutes as well. I get asked ‘Hi how are you? Your country? Your name? What you doing Bangladesh?’ about 20 times a day – genuinely – and so in Sylhet when me and Luke are out together the sight is rarer than a driver giving way.

Capital Canadian:

I headed over to Zoe’s, where she, Ann-Sofie and I drank wine and got ready for a charity fashion show and ball that night. Colombo has lots of balls, none of which I’ve ever attended because the tickets cost five days’ allowance for me. Zoe and Ann-So bought me a ticket to this one though as a goodbye gift, and they brought a bunch of their dresses for me to try (it never occurred to me to pack a fancy dress for this experience). The night was an absolute blast from start to finish and I’m so glad I got to do it. The fashion show was good, the food was yummy and we got gift bags to take home.

Rural Brit:

The main reason for going… was to have a little farewell party for Luke. He was going to get another six-month working visa to stay here, before going to America to work there in July, but totally unexpectedly, his visa wasn’t renewed and he had to leave Bangladesh on Monday. This now means that I’m the only non-Asian person and native English-speaker in an area of at least 12,600 sq km, probably more, and thus will now be even more famous in Sylhet, where tourists can now come and see a white man. There are two Japanese development workers here until May, but as far as I know, that’s it. Everyone else who permanently lives here is ethnically Bengali.

When I was organising my VSO placement, the one thing I specifically said to my placement advisor was that wherever I was going, I didn’t care how beautiful it was, I didn’t want to be on my own.

Capital Canadian:

On Sunday… we went for a hangover breakfast at Park Street Mews. It was delicious. The bacon was actually salty! …In the late afternoon, I went for my second good-bye do: high tea at the Galle Face Hotel. I had thrown out an invitation to the VSOs and a couple of other low-income friends and, much to my delight, several people accepted. In all, there were eight of us and it was just one of those times when everyone clicks. It was a really lovely afternoon of getting to know each other (or getting to know each other better), enjoying a gorgeous all-you-can-eat meal and talking at length about scones (apparently the proper pronunciation is “skons”.) It made me sad that I wouldn’t get to spend more time with these folks.

Rural Brit:

In our global world 21st century world though, I’m aware that this is an anthropological privilege to be able to be somewhere that still hasn’t been distorted and or ruined by ‘Western’ culture and standards of living. That doesn’t mean that I like it, because I enjoy sharing experiences with people face to face, not just in writing, but I certainly appreciate it and am going to try and make the best of what is a rare situation. I’ve no choice, after all.

Capital Canadian:

In the evening, Zoe, Ann-So, Naomi and I went for goodbye number three: a goodbye dinner at Summer garden. They’d never been there before (it’s low rent, but good) and they were happy I’d introduced them to the place. We all enjoyed ourselves again with lots of laughs. I will miss them. Zoe’s Australian, Ann-So is Swedish and Naomi is British. One of the sad things about saying goodbye here is you’re not likely to see people in this context again or, possibly, in any context together again.

Tomorrow (which is actually today, since the sun is now up) is going to be a busy one. Lots of last minute running around followed by my final goodbye: a drop-in drinks event at the Cricket Club. I’m looking forward to seeing everyone one last time.

It would be easy to make judgements about both volunteers  simply based on these snippets.  The truth is that, a quick look through their blogs, and you’ll find that neither had it easy.  Both faced challenges and both learnt a great deal and hopefully taught just as much.

I received an email from a prospective volunteer this week who asked me about my experiences as she weighed up a posting that had been suggested to her.  I said go for it but later learned she felt that  it wasn’t right and she was sufficiently clued up, because she had done her research, to make that call.

Recently I also received an email from a couple who were also headed out soon.  He was going to volunteer and she was going to find work.  Was that possible?  They weren’t married – would that be an issue?  Africa or Asia? Rural or capital city?

I advised them where I could and tried not to suggest one continent or one place over another – I just ran them through some of the challenges they may face in each.

I’m happy to do it – I feel like I have two incredible experiences with VSO and its the least I can do.

I believe that blogs are the best source of information if you want to find out about living anywhere – and it’s those moments when the blogger lets their guard down and tells it like it is where you learn the most. My experience with a steady trickle of volunteer emails suggests that the new recruits are already primarily looking to blogs for their pre departure briefings.

On a recent trip to VSO in London I met a number of the staff, none of which had ever been volunteers.  They simply weren’t qualified to advise in these areas.  Only volunteers are.

While for VSO promoting bloggers as a source of info is a leap of faith from the culture of PR, it mirrors what we want from our own grass roots partners in developing countries – transparency, honesty, reporting, dialogue etc etc.

And going back to that Rural Brit – he’s home now, with a job and all appears to be working out.  There’s no doubt he had a tough placement but he stuck it out.

I’ll leave you with his final words because he obviously took so much from the experience and the adversity and it put “the bad” in context.  No volunteer has a perfect life, but very very few have regrets:

Another tune that has been something of a soundtrack for me in Bangladesh is‘Factory’ by Martha Wainwright, a beautiful lilting lament that begins with the couplet “These are not my people I should never have come here”.

But I’ve found as the last year has gone on that whilst I could never say that I am Bangladeshi, there’s no reason to think that different people can’t take pleasure in the same life. I’m separated either through my education, upbringing, culture, wealth, health, spiritual or temporal beliefs from the vast majority of Bangladeshis, yet there’s much less of the artificial barriers and constraints that separate people in the West.

I’ve felt obviously completely distinct from Bangladeshis over the last year, but also strangely in solidarity with the country here, I think because there are so few places to hide. You get swept up and embraced whether you like it or not, but if you can manage to stop struggling, abandon your own lenses of perception and accept that those lenses are useless here – perception is irrelevant, the country has one layer, one screen that everyone is pressed against to make up the pixels of a bigger picture of Bangladesh. That envelops everybody; it’s a shared common space. It’s a very crowded space, uncomfortable at times, but its one layer.

The cost of doing business in Cameroon

Posted June 29, 2009 by ourman
Categories: cameroon

Tags: , , , ,

So we launched COPAAP Okadas (motorbike taxis aimed at generating funds for our NGO – see here).

There was a brief couple of weeks where we were quietly pleased with our progress despite the occasional hiccup.

While a couple of drivers were slightly behind with their 3,000 CFA rental per day, we felt that the amounts involved were nothing to get too alarmed at.

Then a driver disappears.  Fortunately not with the motorbike.

We hear that he is in Douala and expect his return soon but the break stretches into days. Eventually it appears he’s not coming back.

One of the stipulations in their contract is that if  it’s broken in the early days of employment the driver is liable to pay back all investment in him.  From uniforms to riding lessons – as well as, of course, rental money owing.

And this being Cameroon we planned for such an eventuality as a disappearance.  The reason people employ family so often here is not so much about nepotism but trust.  An employee might think that a couple of hundred dollars is worth doing a flit with and disappearing into a far flung corner of Cameroon, but you’d hope a family member would think twice.

The okada driver was, no doubt, a friend of a friend who was recommended.  And to further guard against the flit his mother, a respected local woman, was his guarantor.

Now sadly, with the driver no longer around, she is stuck with her son’s bill.

I feel very bad about this but don’t want to see COPAAP look like a soft touch. I suggested at our weekly meeting that while she was the guarantor it will still the son owing the money and we should do what we can to chase him instead. An older female African colleague explained that, no,  the mother is in charge she must put things right.  This is how it is in Cameroon.

Meanwhile I’ve turned up today to find out that the Police have impounded one of the other bikes. The driver swears that he did nothing wrong.  I don’t know how accurate that is but I can well believe that it’s simply a money making operation by local cops.

Our system of 3,000 a day hire purchase of the bikes (after a certain amount is paid off they get to keep them) has not included the bonus of free bike use on Sundays.  With some Okada owners Sunday is a free day whereby they pay zero Francs for rental and its all profit.

Personally I’d be in favour of it but have listened to Cameroonian colleagues who think that Sunday is the day when drivers are liable to get drunk and leave the bikes somewhere or have them stolen.  I want to make it clear that this is not my judgement – it’s there’s.

This income generation operation is aimed at boosting everyday funds for COPAAP.  In particular covering the day-to-day running costs that otherwise there simply is no provision for.

I’m still confident of its success and that we can go on to make this work and despite the above issues I’ve seen enough to think that with the right drivers we can make this work.

But what is also true, so far, is that we are seeing a microcosm of why Cameroon is failing. If it isn’t already harming us then the fear of it is.

En-forced nepotism, gender inequality, corruption, alcohol abuse, mistrust …the list goes on. I hesitate to say “work ethic” because I think it’s the most frequently levelled accusation from foreigners and it comes unpleasantly close to a dangerous, and often inaccurate, stereotype – but the signs aren’t good.

It’s not hard to see what entrepreneurship is so limited in Cameroon.  You don’t have to look too hard to see the odds are stacked against any kind of commercial success.

In addition while corruption may be the a cause of this apathy and lack of ambition that haunts Cameroon – it’s not the only problem.

The wider situation:

The 2009 Doing Business Report (the World Bank Groups’ ranking of objective measures of business regulations, enforcements and the suitability for foreign investments across 181 countries of the world) has Cameroon ranked at 164, six spots worse compared to the 2008 ranking and indeed our country is even worse than Robert Mugabe’s Zimbabwe.

You can read the rest here and ask yourself – how did Cameroon get into such a mess?

We are all complicit in corruption

Posted June 27, 2009 by ourman
Categories: cameroon

Tags: , , , ,

logo_ccfdIf there’s a recurring theme to this blog, beyond my expat whining, it’s …what’s to be done about Cameroon and whocan force change?

It’s a county becoming steadily poorer and with any internal challenges or shows of dissent being quashed it appears that most people are simply waiting for the president to die and are hoping then that life will improve.

While their patience and peace-loving nature is to be admired – it’s hard not to believe that any status quo that goes unchallenged will change – even if the players do.

However in a continent that is so frequently troubled by war and famine, Cameroonians at least as it stands, largely have enough to eat and are free from bloodshed – even if poverty is becoming more acute and infrastructure ever declining.

It’s not unreasonable then for Cameroonians to look overseas for assistance  - firstly to the diaspora that have escaped the limited opportunities here, secondly to the media to highlight what is happening and thirdly to overseas governments.

There was an interesting piece in Afrik.com which reported the findings of  The Catholic Committee against Hunger and for Development.  In particular it highlighted not only the huge wealth of the Cameroonian leader but also how his activities are tolerated by European governments.

According to the authors of “ill-gotten gains, who benefits from the crime”, Paul Biya’s family owns castles in France and Germany, as well as many timber and mining companies. The presidential couple through their many “looting sprees” are said to have caused “the bankruptcy” of a Cameroonian banking company (Société Camerounaise de bank).

Even more bizarrely:

The same head of state is also said to be a major financier of Osti (Sovereign Order of the Temple of initiation), an occult organization which is linked to the sect of the Order of the Solar Temple. In 1998, Raymond Bernard, the late founder of Osti (died in 2006), indicated that Paul Biya was a honorary president of a branch of the sect.

The Cameroonian President, reportedly, gave the organization 5.6 million French francs on 2 March 1990 and 11.2 million francs from 1992 to 1998. The funds are said to have been transferred through the National Hydrocarbons Corporation (SNH) in Cameroon.

Afrik.com reports the summing up as:

“What is disturbing with this study”, the authors write, “is not so much the volume of stolen assets”, but rather the inaction “despite repeated promises of wars on corruption, only 1% to 4% of stolen assets have been returned to the concerned populations”.

The report cites the example of France. When it comes to advocating the fight against crime, it is in the lead, but it is well among the last to be concerned with acting or returning assets and ill-gotten to its rightful owners, the document indicates.

This is the “real scandal”, Guy Aurenche, the President of CCFD, said Wednesday at a press conference. “In 2009, hunger is still gaining ground and the money could be used to feed people and to help develop those poor countries”, Guy said.

I can’t remember if I have written it here but it’s been a staple of my discussions with VSO volunteers and assorted international volunteers who have ended up in Bamenda, but it’s this…

It’s like accusing all men of being philanderers – sooner or later you have to ask..well who with?

It’s not enough for developed countries to point at Cameroon, and indeed the whole of Africa and making tutting noises at the level of corruption.

Because it takes two to be corrupt.  If people are taking pay-offs from companies – where are those companies from?  If people are embezzling money and taking it out of the country that needs it desperately – who is receiving it?

If people are spending their cash and hiding from the duties and responsibilities in their homeland then where is it being spent?

And likewise those of us, from those countries that are allowing this behaviour to go unchallenged, are also guilty.

Empowerment is a word that gets repeated ad nausea in development circles and it’s easy to tire of.  But the truth is people here are not empowered to make real political and democratic change.

It’s up to those that are – who have the freedom and the wealth and influence and opportunity – to remember that the people living with poverty and disease in Cameroon are not doing so because their country lacks resources – or that they are doing so due to war or famine or natural disaster.

They are doing so because they have no other choice and are powerless to stop and protest at,  not only rich and powerful individuals in their own country, but also against the complicit countries that turn around and call *them* corrupt.

As I have said before on here – none of us have the moral high ground.