It’s all gone a bit Exorcist

Posted July 14, 2009 by ourman
Categories: cameroon

Tags: , , , ,

I’m not sure how The Eden has passed me by until now – its website describes it as: one of the foremost English language media references in the Republic of Cameroon.

The story that caught my eye is here in its entirety – but some snippets are cut and pasted below:

Initiation of young children into secret cults is fast becoming the order of the day in Bamenda within primary and secondary schools.

Such children who are being initiated fall mostly between the early ages of 1- 25 years. Some are initiated through small food items, others through small gifts and jewelries as well as through peers and elders.

A case in point is a Lower Sixth student of St Paul College Nkwen, whose name we are withholding who said she was initiated in Form Four and had been in the secret cult for three years.

At night she used to eat and drink blood in her dreams…

Terrified by these incidents, her aunt who noticed her strange behaviour took her to a pastor and there was a serious spiritual fight between the pastor and members of her cult and she was the only one who saw it. All attempts to deliver her at this stage failed as she was given some hairs, crowns, rings and was made a queen and later got married to a boy in the cult kingdom.

“After consistent prayers with the pastor, I was advised to keep praying but it was unfortunate that my faith was not strong enough, because one night two men came and raped me and I got up the following morning with waist pain. They also asked me to offer my brother as sacrifice which I refused to. I then rushed to the pastor who fortified me with the words of Psalm 29 and consistent prayers which I have leaned on and have been freed from bondage,” she remarked.

She, however, cautioned other youths to avoid excessive drinking and indecent dressing which are attractive forces of cultism. She equally urged youths to take their dreams seriously  for that may by one of the ways to detect whether they are being initiated or not.

So a secret cult- that’s no one has ever seen – a fight between her pastor and the cult members – which she was the only one who saw (not even the pastor it seems.)

Fortified by Psalm 29 she faces her demons – but suffered rape (in her sleep).  In the end her advice is: cover up,lay off the palm wine, pray a bit and you’ll be just fine.

This is why missionaries come to Cameroon.  It’s not because local people need their assistance in repelling such forces of darkness – it’s because it appears that people, even newspapers, will believe anything.

Slo mo movie lauch

Posted July 13, 2009 by ourman
Categories: cameroon

Tags: , , , , ,

There are a number of events that I have attended in Cameroon that I haven’t ended up documenting here.

In the past I’ve written that, in particular, I wanted to avoid simply posting African clichés.  That remains the case but in addition there have been functions attended where anything I had written about them would have read either as farce or finger pointing criticism.

If you can’t say anything nice then don’t say anything at all, right?

The only sliver of comment I want to make is that I find events in Cameroon – even such positive events as a graduation ceremony or a wedding – end up by having the joy well and truly wrung out of them by the accepted protocol and the usual mic hogging egos.

And having said that, I want to tell you of the film launch I attended this evening.  In a country without a single cinema and with me longing for the movie going experience, it seemed like a big deal.

Even this, by now somewhat jaded and cynical 10 and a half month Cameroon resident, was genuinely and honestly really looking forward to it.

***

Experience tells me that the time you’re asked to attend a local event is more than flexible – but with the invite saying “5pm prompt” and “your punctuality…will be appreciated” I thought it was best to turn up on time.

We arrived to find a film already playing but were told it wasn’t THE film.  But we sat and watched for a while from our seats in a pretty much empty hall.

Half hour passed and a keyboard was carried onto the stage.  It was followed by a guy who pounded the keys and made pffttt and st, st, st…. noises every ten seconds or so to test the microphone.  And then another microphone and then another.

Occasionally the sound would reach ear splittingly uncomfortable levels.

The film we had actually got quite engrossed in had had its sound turned down to allow for this tuning up.

At one point the soundcheck turned into an impromptu version of Careless Whisper.

At another point the tinny tune carried on as the keyboard player walked away in the direction of the toilets.

A little later he was joined by two more people and they sung “We are the World”. Not for the audience, as such, more just as part of the ongoing soundcheck.

After an hour and a half of this we disappeared outside for a few minutes – before long we were told that the programme would now start. All events in Cameroon have a programme.  From a meeting through to a party with a few invited friends.

No social occasion is too small to have either programme or MC.

We returned to another 20 minutes of waiting before what we presumed to be our host took to the stage.  Here goes, we thought, a few words from this guy and away with the film.

No there were lots of words.  Lots of thank yous. Lots of praising God.  That phrase of death: “all protocols will be followed” which means there will be many speeches, was uttered.  Our host then asks us to rise and sing a hymn.

Hymn sung we sit down.  We rise again for a prayer.  A very long prayer.

We sit down.

We rise again for the national anthem.  We sit down

We rise again for the anthem of the film production organisation. We sit down.

A comedian is welcomed to the stage.  He speaks in pidgin – I can’t follow much but he goes down well enough with the crowd.

We rise again for a minutes silence – I can’t recall who died.

We sit down.

Every so often a tall guy in a white cap comes on to stage and whispers into the man with the mic’s ear.  My feeling is that the event planning is somewhat open to last minute amendments and new names that must make speeches are being added.

We then are handed over to “our host for the evening” who will “get the programme underway”.

So that other guy wasn’t our host?  And “the programme” hasn’t even started yet? We’re over two hours in already.

The new host says a few words.  Assorted VIPs are thanked.

The piano sound checking dudes – there are two now – one of which genuinely appears to be called DJ Bin Laden – get to sing another song.

We get “We are the World” again. Apparently this is in tribute to Michael Jackson.

We see the movie trailer – actually we see it several times over the evening.

The young children who apparently appear in the movie come on to the stage.  They sing very nicely.

We are asked to stand again for another minute’s silence – as someone else has died.

The host talks a little more.

The producer (I think – it is he) gets up and makes a speech.

Singers sing again..this time a Phil Collins number.

Local politician gets up and talks some more.

When they tell us what they are now about to show is just excerpts from the film we realise that the film we had been waiting so long to see isn’t going to be shown.  I suppose I took movie launch to mean premiere.

To be fair, that was probably a little naive in hindsight as seeing as there are no cinemas here the DVD market is all – they want us to buy the disc.

So they show an extended series of highlights – enough for us to know who dies, who lives, who does what to whom and what happens in the end.

Just before the excerpts start somebody, I assume involved in the movie, takes the seat next to mine and proceeds to demonstrate his knowledge of the film by saying all the lines into my left ear – a fraction before the actors say them on the film.

While the movie plays someone takes a cell phone call in the audience and has a loud conversation. Our first host for the evening is now sitting in front of me – he talks loudly throughout the clips.

Lights come back on – we’ve been in the hall three hours by this point. The host takes to the stage and starts to talk again and introduce further speakers….we decide it’s time to sneak away.

As I finish writing this at 9.15pm on a Sunday night (I’ll post it tomorrow) I wonder if I the event is still going on.

Achu soup – only the strongest survive

Posted July 9, 2009 by ourman
Categories: cameroon, food

Tags: , ,

achusoup

It’s says a great deal about the access to internet in Cameroon that I’ve found it hard to find information on the most Cameroonian of dishes – achu soup.

It’s a while since I’ve been exposed to the dish and haven’t been able to snap it, so this pic sourced from Flickr is as good as it gets.

Anyway, for the foreigner, achu soup is the dish that you really don’t want to find yourself in the situation of having to eat.  However, it’s hard to overstate how loved it is by Cameroonians.

Personally – I’ve had neither the inclination or the guts to eat it.  Mostly, I guess, because I want my guts to remain where they are.

The ingredient that is generally blamed for the adverse affect on whiteman tummies is lime stone – all ground up and added to the sauce alongside bananas, beef, cow skin, palm oil and assorted spices.

While I have heard of foreigners who have mastered not only the art of keeping it down and remaining healthy  - they are very very few and far between. For the most part – if you plan to eat achu then ensure your diary is empty for the rest of the week or ensure meetings take place very near to a functioning toilet.

If you do want to throw caution to the wind then you also have to master the art of how it’s eaten – firstly the  coco yam, in a mash-like state, is moulded into a nest shape where the soup is poured. From there soup soaked yam is scraped away from the inside outwards with the index finger.

With 50 days to go in Cameroon I can quite honestly say that I will not be eating achu.  To date I’ve onl had it served up in a buffets where I’ve had other safer options t0 go for – without the risk of offending my hosts.

It’s worth noting that my achu knowledge is very limited and am happy to be put right on any of the information above – also are there any foreigners out there who have eaten it and survived to tell the tale?  Or any Cameroonians who are happy to explain their achu-love?

Pic from Obnoxious hero via Flickr.

VSO blogging – goldmine mined

Posted July 2, 2009 by ourman
Categories: volunteering

Tags: , , ,

No sooner had I written the last post when I received a comment from Dave.

Dave’s a VSO volunteer in Namibia and the man behind Dave’s Boring Blog.

It seems we’ve been thinking along the same lines. He explains:

Noticing the same lack of a centralised place I been working on a little project to act as a central directory of VSO blogs indexed by country. The very early (and it’s literally three days old) implementation is http://vsojournals.purplepixie.org – right now it’s not very functional and looks awful but I would be grateful of any comments or suggestions, contact details provided on the site.

Sadly the one place I can’t get post information from is vso-stories.net which, shock horror, doesn’t offer RSS feeds!

Also along the same lines, in April last year I posted plans to create a similar site but when I aired the idea on the VSO Facebook site I was persuaded to leave it as VSO were supposedly on to it.  It appears now – they weren’t.

You snooze you lose and now VSO face the prospect of such a valuable resource growing without their input. It also means that web traffic may well go via this new site direct to blogs without touching the official one.

I emailed Dave and he further explained:

When researching my own placements I made extensive use of blogs (including yours in various guises!!) which, as you say, is the easiest way to get a proper feel for the place.

Around the same time I came across the Peace Corp Journals site and thought that was a really good idea. With a little bit of time on my hands and a geekish interest in parsing RSS thought I’d see what I could knock together.

Googling is always a bit hit and miss, I missed blogs I’ve later found etc and so thought a directory-by-country with inbuilt RSS feed would be the best way of doing it.

Nice work.  It was always going to happen sooner or later.

Blogging, not PR, tells the whole story of VSO volunteering

Posted July 2, 2009 by ourman
Categories: volunteering

Tags: , , , ,

VSO_logo_gifI can recall first bringing up VSO’s inability to make use of the hundreds of worldwide blogs almost five years ago.

I was in a volunteer Conference in Hoi An and volunteers were being asked to provide details of their experience for publication to aid new volunteers and those signing up.

I knew most of my colleagues kept a blog and I suggested instead why just not put them on a list and they could be accessed and contacted as needed.

Probably just to appease me, a sheet of paper was handed round for us all to write our URLs on and then…nothing was ever done about it.

Later when they needed pictures for posters and websites this time I suggested utilising Flickr.  We could all be given log in details and could all upload pics and it would have the added value of us seeing what each was up to, enabling us to share pics with back home AND the programme office could have their pick of the best ones.

Again it was never acted upon.

Spool forward a few years and here we are in 2009 and there has been some blogging breakthroughs – in particular the visually uninspiring on-site official efforts.  However the gold mine of what must surely be hundreds and hundreds of blogs remain unmined.

I’m moved to blog this (yet) again because this week two blogs turned up in my RSS trawl.  One was only recently posted whereas the other is from a couple of years back (it was a new comment that made it pop up).

But they show the extremes of VSO life and indeed of expat life and they address probably the key issue for volunteers in determining what posting is best for them and what can be handled.

They are also a reminder that, in putting their faith in social media, organisations like VSO have to unlearn the PR lessons and decide that while they can continue to promote the good it isn’t unreasonable to acknowledge the bad.

Actually, for many people “the bad” is part of the experience.  Often it’s “the bad” that makes the experience.  Hopefully in the snippets below – from a Capital-based Canadian saying goodbye to a big city post in Sri Lanka – and a Brit suffering in rural Bangladesh – you will see what I mean:

Rural Brit:

The day was slightly tarnished though by being constantly harassed and stared at. I’m beginning to realise what it must be like to be a really famous footballer or film-star, because everywhere I go the whole street turns it head and watches me, whether I’m cycling, eating, being ripped off in the market, picking my nose.

Capital Canadian:

This weekend was lovely. On Friday night, VSO held a cocktail party to introduce the new country director, Patrick, to volunteers, partners, funders and friends of the organization. …The party was the perfect opportunity to say goodbye to the volunteers and partners … all in a nice social setting with food and free wine! After the VSO event, many of us headed to the Cricket Club…

Rural Brit:

In Srimangal a few months ago me and Georgia got followed on our bikes by six kids for almost two miles. We thought we’d try and bore them out, so stopped by the side of the road and just stood and said nothing for two minutes. They all stopped about a metre away from us and peered at us for two minutes as well. I get asked ‘Hi how are you? Your country? Your name? What you doing Bangladesh?’ about 20 times a day – genuinely – and so in Sylhet when me and Luke are out together the sight is rarer than a driver giving way.

Capital Canadian:

I headed over to Zoe’s, where she, Ann-Sofie and I drank wine and got ready for a charity fashion show and ball that night. Colombo has lots of balls, none of which I’ve ever attended because the tickets cost five days’ allowance for me. Zoe and Ann-So bought me a ticket to this one though as a goodbye gift, and they brought a bunch of their dresses for me to try (it never occurred to me to pack a fancy dress for this experience). The night was an absolute blast from start to finish and I’m so glad I got to do it. The fashion show was good, the food was yummy and we got gift bags to take home.

Rural Brit:

The main reason for going… was to have a little farewell party for Luke. He was going to get another six-month working visa to stay here, before going to America to work there in July, but totally unexpectedly, his visa wasn’t renewed and he had to leave Bangladesh on Monday. This now means that I’m the only non-Asian person and native English-speaker in an area of at least 12,600 sq km, probably more, and thus will now be even more famous in Sylhet, where tourists can now come and see a white man. There are two Japanese development workers here until May, but as far as I know, that’s it. Everyone else who permanently lives here is ethnically Bengali.

When I was organising my VSO placement, the one thing I specifically said to my placement advisor was that wherever I was going, I didn’t care how beautiful it was, I didn’t want to be on my own.

Capital Canadian:

On Sunday… we went for a hangover breakfast at Park Street Mews. It was delicious. The bacon was actually salty! …In the late afternoon, I went for my second good-bye do: high tea at the Galle Face Hotel. I had thrown out an invitation to the VSOs and a couple of other low-income friends and, much to my delight, several people accepted. In all, there were eight of us and it was just one of those times when everyone clicks. It was a really lovely afternoon of getting to know each other (or getting to know each other better), enjoying a gorgeous all-you-can-eat meal and talking at length about scones (apparently the proper pronunciation is “skons”.) It made me sad that I wouldn’t get to spend more time with these folks.

Rural Brit:

In our global world 21st century world though, I’m aware that this is an anthropological privilege to be able to be somewhere that still hasn’t been distorted and or ruined by ‘Western’ culture and standards of living. That doesn’t mean that I like it, because I enjoy sharing experiences with people face to face, not just in writing, but I certainly appreciate it and am going to try and make the best of what is a rare situation. I’ve no choice, after all.

Capital Canadian:

In the evening, Zoe, Ann-So, Naomi and I went for goodbye number three: a goodbye dinner at Summer garden. They’d never been there before (it’s low rent, but good) and they were happy I’d introduced them to the place. We all enjoyed ourselves again with lots of laughs. I will miss them. Zoe’s Australian, Ann-So is Swedish and Naomi is British. One of the sad things about saying goodbye here is you’re not likely to see people in this context again or, possibly, in any context together again.

Tomorrow (which is actually today, since the sun is now up) is going to be a busy one. Lots of last minute running around followed by my final goodbye: a drop-in drinks event at the Cricket Club. I’m looking forward to seeing everyone one last time.

It would be easy to make judgements about both volunteers  simply based on these snippets.  The truth is that, a quick look through their blogs, and you’ll find that neither had it easy.  Both faced challenges and both learnt a great deal and hopefully taught just as much.

I received an email from a prospective volunteer this week who asked me about my experiences as she weighed up a posting that had been suggested to her.  I said go for it but later learned she felt that  it wasn’t right and she was sufficiently clued up, because she had done her research, to make that call.

Recently I also received an email from a couple who were also headed out soon.  He was going to volunteer and she was going to find work.  Was that possible?  They weren’t married – would that be an issue?  Africa or Asia? Rural or capital city?

I advised them where I could and tried not to suggest one continent or one place over another – I just ran them through some of the challenges they may face in each.

I’m happy to do it – I feel like I have two incredible experiences with VSO and its the least I can do.

I believe that blogs are the best source of information if you want to find out about living anywhere – and it’s those moments when the blogger lets their guard down and tells it like it is where you learn the most. My experience with a steady trickle of volunteer emails suggests that the new recruits are already primarily looking to blogs for their pre departure briefings.

On a recent trip to VSO in London I met a number of the staff, none of which had ever been volunteers.  They simply weren’t qualified to advise in these areas.  Only volunteers are.

While for VSO promoting bloggers as a source of info is a leap of faith from the culture of PR, it mirrors what we want from our own grass roots partners in developing countries – transparency, honesty, reporting, dialogue etc etc.

And going back to that Rural Brit – he’s home now, with a job and all appears to be working out.  There’s no doubt he had a tough placement but he stuck it out.

I’ll leave you with his final words because he obviously took so much from the experience and the adversity and it put “the bad” in context.  No volunteer has a perfect life, but very very few have regrets:

Another tune that has been something of a soundtrack for me in Bangladesh is‘Factory’ by Martha Wainwright, a beautiful lilting lament that begins with the couplet “These are not my people I should never have come here”.

But I’ve found as the last year has gone on that whilst I could never say that I am Bangladeshi, there’s no reason to think that different people can’t take pleasure in the same life. I’m separated either through my education, upbringing, culture, wealth, health, spiritual or temporal beliefs from the vast majority of Bangladeshis, yet there’s much less of the artificial barriers and constraints that separate people in the West.

I’ve felt obviously completely distinct from Bangladeshis over the last year, but also strangely in solidarity with the country here, I think because there are so few places to hide. You get swept up and embraced whether you like it or not, but if you can manage to stop struggling, abandon your own lenses of perception and accept that those lenses are useless here – perception is irrelevant, the country has one layer, one screen that everyone is pressed against to make up the pixels of a bigger picture of Bangladesh. That envelops everybody; it’s a shared common space. It’s a very crowded space, uncomfortable at times, but its one layer.